Vacation is finally here!

Well, here I am in the wonderful Land of the Round Doorknobs enjoying a well-deserved 'parole' - ahem, vacation - from the rock!

Flew out on Continental 172 on Monday, October 10 via Majuro to Honolulu, getting in at around 3:00 am local time (they sure know how to pad them flight times, don't they? ETA was 3:30 Honolulu time. Had the opportunity of using the Global Entry kiosk at immigration and processing was quick and painless (completed processing back in March). Scan passport, place hand on biometric reader, answer a few questions and you're pre-cleared. Just show the ticket from the kiosk at immigration and customs and you're done.

Got out at the curb in front of arrivals around 4:00 am and waited to meet a friend of mine from CAP Hawaii Wing so we could chow down on some early-morning grindz at Byron's (a diner not far from the airport that's open 24 hours). Back to the airport to check in for the flight to the mainland; after a five-hour flight to Los Angeles and a quick connection, I finally got into Las Vegas at around 5:15 pm local time. I was jetlagged, exhausted and in pain suffering from a boil in my backside. Got it taken care of a day later at the local hospital (I had begun to see the docs on Kwaj for treatment and they were considering sending me to Honolulu for treatment but I was able to convince them to get the work done while in Vegas.)

Early on the morning of the 15th, I flew from Vegas to Montgomery, Alabama via Atlanta to attend CAP National Staff College at Maxwell AFB. It was a busy week, with little free time, but an in-depth course on how CAP works at the national level. It's said that the future crop of wing and region commanders are selected from NSC graduates. Not that I'm holding my breath... The banquet and graduation ceremony was held at the historic Maxwell AFB Officers' Club; for many (including myself) it was an opportunity to sport our recently-purchased mess dress uniforms. The uniform is optional but it is an unwritten rule in CAP for field-grade officers (major and above) to own one if they meet CAP weight and grooming standards. Below is a picture of yours truly sporting mess dress:

Back home to Vegas on Saturday, October 22, arriving late in the afternoon. A few more days in Vegas and then my mom and I board a flight to Honolulu for the last four days of my vacation. On the day I return to Kwaj, Mom returns to Vegas.

Less than one month before parole!

Less than one month to go before I board Continental 172 and fly to the mainland for a well-deserved vacation! Paid for my extra legroom and Economy+ upgrades (though I was unable to get Economy+ seating on the Honolulu-Los Angeles-Las Vegas leg of the flight - things may change as I get closer to flight time, and I might be able to snag one on the day of the flight) and for the premier line upgrade (I get to go through the first class/premier boarding instead of the cattle-car boarding call). Considering I'm going to be in the air or waiting at the airport for connections for nearly 18 hours, it's well worth the extra expense.
Morale and quality of life is sinking further... the latest cuts to our quality of life are the elimination of the work bus service to the technical areas (where I work) and reduction of the hours of operation of the Small Boat Marina. While we've been promised higher-speed DSL internet, I'm still skeptical about it; I'll believe it when I see it offered. The costs ain't gonna be cheap; for the maximum bandwidth offered we're expected to pay around $150 a month for the service. And it's nowhere near as fast as what one is used to on the mainland and Hawaii. Even Ebeye (yes, the 'slum of the Pacific') already enjoys high speed internet. I wouldn't be surprised if people (especially us BQ rats) got together and split the cost of the internet connection.

It's a constant battle between the haves (families in housing) and the have nots (the BQ residents); and the biggest irritant are the 'island fluff' who contribute little or nothing but expect everything. The powers-that-be (and their cheerleaders) always come up with the same retort: "if you don't like it here, leave - six flights off the rock every week!" Most of us here are making the best out of life in this rock out in the middle of Bumfuck, Nowhere while muttering under our breath the mantra the military knows so well: IHTFP (I Hate This Fucking Place). And they ask us why we drink? Now that the vitriol is vented, I feel much better. Island life will have its ups and downs, and while I occasionally will complain I don't plan on pulling the loud handle anytime soon.

Put my money down to start taking scuba lessons after I come back from vacation. One more item off my Kwaj bucket list. I've yet to go sailing or spend an overnight trip to Bigej Island.

Shopping on the rock

Because of our remote location out in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, we don't have the luxury of getting in our cars and driving to the nearest shopping mall or eatery.('Cause we can't own cars on Kwaj, and they don't float!)

AAFES (Army and Air Force Exchange Service) is the primary retail establishment on the island. Before they came on island the retail stores were operated by the contractor (KRS). Because of the size of the population, there isn't much of a selection and it took AAFES a couple of years of growing pains to get into the swing of things. They're improving, but you'll always have a cynical vocal minority on the rock that bitch just to hear themselves bitch. A new general manager for the AAFES operation just took over a couple of months ago, and he's making great strides in listening to the customers and improving stock. Within the rank and file staff the 'ainokea' (Hawaiian pidgin for 'I don't care') attitude is a lot less pervasive but still needs some more work.

Recently, policies were changed to reduce the number of Marshallese shopping days and the total dollar amounts Marshallese workers on the island could purchase. When AAFES began operations here, Marshallese could shop every Saturday and could spend up to $250 to buy food and other items at the PX. PXtra and Shoppette. Naturally, it was the big moneymaker for AAFES. After complaints from the local merchants on Ebeye, who claimed that Marshallese workers were shopping on Kwaj instead of locally, which was hurting their business.  (And there's a thriving black market of illegally-resold exchange goods at some stores on Ebeye.) In July, new restrictions were imposed on the Marshallese workers for shopping days. Shopping is every other Saturday on payday week until December 31, then it reduces even further to only twice a year after that. (Under KRS retail, that same twice-a-year policy existed as well.) It does hurt the bottom line for AAFES, and I wouldn't be surprised if changes will be made to adjust to the reduced shopping income.

For the military, DoD civilians and contractors on island, online shopping at the restricted AAFES website is allowed, and our common access cards (CAC) allow unlimited exchange and commissary privileges at the brick and mortar stores overseas and on the mainland. I've never had a problem shopping AAFES online, nor have I had a purchase or admission to the store denied when shopping at the exchanges at Hickam or Nellis AFB while on leave.

Our commissary - supermarket for you silly-vilians - is known as Surfway. (Old-time Kwajies will remember that it was originally called Safeway but the big supermarket chain objected, forcing the name change. Before AAFES came to the island, the downtown stores were known as Macy's (shortened from 'Macy's of the Marshalls', dating back from post WWII days), Macy's West and Ten-Ten (after its original hours of operation: 10 am to 10 pm). Unlike the PX and Shoppette downtown, Marshallese workers are not allowed to shop at Surfway. Again, Surfway just hired on a new manager, and he's doing his best to improve the selection and quality of items sold there, considering the long and easily broken supply lines to the island.

And if you can't find it on island, your last and best option is to shop online. However, some online retailers will not ship to APOs, primarily because they use UPS or Fedex to ship their goods.(We don't get UPS nor Fedex out here on Kwaj.). For an extra fee, one can use an APO/FPO package forwarding service like ShipItAPO; they receive the package and reship it using the U.S. mail. Delivery times vary, since most mail that is handled through the APO/FPO military mail system is space available on military and civilian contract cargo aircraft. Packages mailed from Hawaii and the west coast of the mainland USA can get here in about a week or less, depending if the package makes it to the pallet at the military mail handling facility (San Francisco, Los Angeles or Honolulu, for us); other locations take as much as 2-3 weeks. Occasionally, packages get misrouted to another APO/FPO, so that sometimes adds to the delay as your package gets shuffled around the world.

The APO/FPO mail is not supposed to be used for personal gain; occasionally you get a private vendor who gets busted trying to skirt around the regulations. There have been occasions where an individual has had their mail privileges suspended or revoked for misusing the mailbox, and their packages returned to sender. Pour encourager les autres...

For heavier items and items that are for resale, some will elect to get them shipped using the barge. The package is delivered to the KRS offices in San Leandro, California or Honolulu, Hawaii (with prior permission) and loaded onto a container ship that stops in Honolulu, Guam and is then transferred to the barge M/V Islander for delivery to Kwaj. This journey takes approximately 60 days to complete.

The reduction of the Marshallese shopping days has already hit AAFES hard... by October the main PX moves into the PXtra, leaving the main building open as a concessionnaire's mall. Some of the island vendors have already moved from their old location in the Mic Shop. The quality of life on the island is eroding dail, and it's already showing on many long-time Kwaj residents.

The Labor Day weekend is upon us again and we're making preparations for the Mongolian BBQ at the Vets' Hall on Sunday. Since reintroducing it last year it's become a popular event and a great fundraiser for the post. Yours truly gets to start making the sauces Saturday night after work and early Sunday morning... and once it's done I'm making a beeline for the nearest bar!

Two years on Kwajalein!

Where did all the time go? It seems like yesterday - and not two years ago - that I got off a plane into an island paradise in the middle of Bumfuck, Nowhere! It's the experience of a lifetime, and I'm enjoying every minute of it.

August 15th, 2011 (the 14th for you mainlanders on the other side of the date line) completes my initial two year employment contract with KRS; from this point forward I'm on 'rolling 90s'. As long as the company wants me, I'm here for the long run.

On the other hand, layoff notices were handed out on Friday. Budget cuts hit us pretty hard (18% more than the cuts last year), and my department wasn't spared. My coworker got his notice. I don't know how many got the chop; the 'coconut wireless' is rife with speculation. The transition to Huntsville apparently is on again; but when that will happen I have no idea. As long as we get enough notice and the relocation package is decent, I'll up and move when the time comes.

Got my acceptance letter to CAP National Staff College and completed all my travel arrangements. And I have a bunch of preparation reading to do before mid-October!

Sunday was a fun-filled day. In the afternoon I participated in a 'hash'. Before you, gentle reader, go off half-cocked, it isn't THAT illegal drug - it's a 'drinking club with a running/walking problem'! (Click on the link for more information.) While I didn't run, I manned one of the 'beer check stations'. The participants searched all over the island for the strategically placed beer stops, and none could continue until all had checked in. After all stations were located, the hash ended with the traditional circle ceremony. Good fun was had by all. (There used to be a Kwajalein Hash House Harrier chapter years ago, but it apparently died out; perhaps this hash might start up the tradition again!)

In the evening, the post had its steak dinner. For $20, ticket holders got a tasty steak (you grill it and season it to taste), baked potato and toppings, vegetable, dessert and a non-alcoholic drink.  As are most outside food events on Kwaj, the event sold out quickly. And now to get ready for the Mongolian BBQ event, being held on Labor Day weekend. (Yours truly gets to make the sauces again.)

Our watering holes...

If you've been following my blog for the past couple of years you've already heard me mention two of the most important places to unwind on the rock: Veterans' Hall (aka Vets' Hall) and the Ocean View Club (aka 'The Snake Pit'). (With an honorable mention to the boat shacks and the late, lamented Yokwe Yuk Club.)

The Ocean View Club (aka 'The Snake Pit')

You can tell a Kwaj newbie or a TDY'er who's never been to Kwaj when they refer to this 'bucket o' blood' by its official name, the Ocean View Club. Kwaj residents refer to it as 'The Snake Pit' or simply 'The Pit'. It is one of the oldest  buildings still standing from World War II days (only the Island Memorial Chapel and the Richardson Theatre are older, but not by much). Back when the Navy ruled the island this was the enlisted men's club. (Building 241, now the USAKA commander's quarters and later the Yokwe Yuk club  was the officers' club.)

Some of you may wonder how the nickname 'The Snake Pit' stuck. Legend has it that it was named after a popular movie of the time, 'The Snake Pit', in which the lead character (Olivia deHavilland) finds herself in an insane asylum and can't remember how she got there. Applying Kwaj logic, it's a place where you can't remember how you got home! (Cheap beer and booze served in copious amounts...) After the Yokwe Yuk club closed down in Halloween 2008, the Pit became the only after-hours bar open seven days a week. It's centrally located on the east end of 'Beautiful Downtown Kwaj' on Ocean Drive, within stumbling - ahem, walking - distance from the BQs. Those riding their bikes in an advanced state of intoxication are strongly advised not to do so, lest they become a target for Kwaj Five-O and a public intoxication charge. (The hospital is across the street from the Pit, so the inevitable scrapes and cuts caused by falling off a bike can be treated. (And the treatment is worse: wounds must be painfully scrubbed out to avoid infection or possibly the growth of coral.)

From the time the Snake Pit opens at 1630 (4:30 pm for you unrepentant silly-vilians) until the last ferry leaves for Ebeye at 2200 (10:00 pm) Marshallese workers coming off their workshifr frequent the bar. Actually, they have 90 minutes after their work shift ends - unless extended by their supervisor or given special permission to stay overnight - to leave the island or risk a trespassing charge. Needless to say, some Marshallese patrons use that 'window' to power-drink cheap beer and liquor in rapid succession, which leads to more than a few getting wasted and getting in fights on the ferry, if they don't pass out between the Pit and the DSC. (Alcohol sales are strictly controlled on Ebeye; one must purchase an alcohol permit at the KALGov (Kwajalein Atoll Local Government) police station in order to purchase alcohol (at steep prices) over on Ebeye.) The Pit closes at 2300 (11:00 pm) Monday through Friday and 0200 (2:00 am) on Saturdays and Sundays. Kwaj Five-O strictly enforces the rule.

In olden days the Snake Pit used to have a kitchen that served pupus to drunk and hungry bar patrons (budget cuts and neglected maintenance eventually closed it); on most Sunday nights the catering department of Retail Sales furnishes a couple of trays of pupus; other nights you'll have to get to the snack bar before it closes or suffer by eating bags of chips or peanuts sold at the bar. (A test project initiated by AAFES now extends pizza delivery by Anthony's Pizza until midnight on Saturdays and Sundays. We're hoping it becomes permanent.)

Veterans' Hall

Home to the only known American Legion post currently meeting within a military installation (Richard B. Anderson Memorial Post No. 44) Vets' Hall is on Lagoon Road as it makes the turn towards the technical areas on Kwaj. Unlike the Snake Pit which is open daily, Vets' Hall is only open to the Kwaj community three nights a week: Friday (1630-2400), Saturday (1630-0200) and Sunday (1900-2400). The other nights are reserved only for active members of American Legion Post 44 and their guests.

Full bartender service is available on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, while 'honor bar' is observed on member-only nights. (For those unfamiliar, money is dropped into a lock box at the bar to cover any drinks purchased.)

Unlike the Snake Pit, Vets' Hall has a fuller - and better - selection of beers and liquors. They only take cash, no plastic. Active American Legion members may run a tab, payable at the end of the month. A covered patio keeps the customers away from the rain showers that pop up almost daily. Vets' Hall is considered a private club, though the shell of the building belongs to Uncle Sam. A full kitchen allows the hall to host special meal nights such as steak nights and the Mongolian BBQ. Members (including myself) may use the kitchen to cook their own meals.

So, which one's better? It depends on the person. Some like the convenience of the Snake Pit, within stumbling distance of the BQs. Others don't mind the 10-minute bike ride to Vets' Hall.